Pienza is characterized by a perfect harmony between its historic center and the surrounding Val d’Orcia landscape. Gentle hills, rows of cypress trees, olive groves, isolated farmhouses, and country roads create a picturesque panorama, which over time has become one of the most iconic images of Tuscany worldwide.”
In this proposed itinerary, it is possible to closely observe the typical features of the Val d’Orcia territory and appreciate its most representative landscapes.
From the public gardens of Piazza Dante Alighieri in Pienza, a short walk down Via delle Fonti leads to the parish church of Corsignano, the oldest in the village. Today, it is secluded, but it once stood at the crossroads of an important country road network. The descent runs alongside the archaeological area known as Cava Barbieri, where traces of Neolithic human habitation have been found.
The Romanesque Parish Church of Santi Vito e Modesto, built in tufa-coloured sandstone, features a formidable cylindrical bell tower, which was originally detached from the church. The parish church has been mentioned in documents since the 8th century, although its current appearance dates back to a 12th-century enlargement. There are mysterious and fascinating symbols of Romanesque decorative style on the façade, like the two-tailed siren and the female caryatid above the window. On the right-hand side, a beautiful portal features a carved relief of the Adoration of the Magi. The interior is bare. Against the right-hand wall, there is a baptismal font, where both of the Piccolomini family popes were baptised. Above the altar, there is a 14th-century wooden crucifix featuring a pronounced expression of sorrow. One of the capitals in the central nave, on the left, displays the symbol of a small serpent, a sign of the church’s rural vocation and a symbol of knowledge in pagan culture.
From the parish church of Corsignano, a steep path descending towards the valley leads to the Terrapille farm. This cobbled road, bordered by tall cypress trees and sweeping views, was immortalised on the big screen in the blockbuster film “Gladiator”.
Continuing down to the valley, turn left towards the Casalino farm and you will then come to the SP18 Monte Amiata Provincial Road, which you follow for just a short distance, until you reach the Strada della Fraternita road. This unpaved road is quite long and climbs up to the Casa al Piano farm, a key junction for various routes. From here, carry on to the village of Monticchiello, passing farmhouses, wheat fields and various scenic spots rich with cypress trees.
Monticchiello, like all the villages in the Val d’Orcia, sits on top of a hill, over 500 metres above sea level. The village is surrounded by medieval walls, punctuated by tower houses with both angular and cylindrical bases. The only direct access is through the Gothic arch of Porta Sant’Agata, but you can choose to walk along the walls to the left of the gateway and follow a path, which has recently been made safe, that runs around the village, offering an entrance from above. Monticchiello is a rural village of great beauty. In the Middle Ages, it was a garrison of the Republic of Siena, defending the border against nearby Montepulciano, which was under Florentine rule. In the mid-16th century, Monticchiello staged heroic resistance against the siege of Charles V’s imperial troops, who were sided with the Medici family against the Republic of Siena, which was forced to surrender, albeit honourably. At the end of the Second World War, another fierce battle took place between fascist militias and partisan groups and is still vividly remembered in the area. Since the 1960s, Teatro Povero di Monticchiello theatre productions are staged every summer.
This is an interesting experiment in acting, performed by amateur actors and actresses, addressing current issues and local traditional history.
The village streets unfold around the beautiful Church of Santi Leonardo e Cristoforo, built in the 13th century and decorated with numerous frescoes by various artists. Next to the church, the Teatro Povero Museum opens onto the square. In the upper part of the village, the houses are surrounded by green vegetable patches and gardens, from which you can admire the walls and towers, including the tallest, the Cassero (castle keep), which will soon be reopened to the public.
There is also a washhouse that was in use until the post-war period.
Monticchiello is the ideal place for a culinary break, offering a wide range of dining options. When you set off again, you can choose to include a stop at a nearby winery or a craft brewery.
To return to Pienza, the first leg of your trip necessarily corresponds to the outward journey.
Once back in Casal Piano, you can head in the opposite direction to the outward journey and then rejoin the Pienza-Monticchiello local road that, after a flat stretch, climbs steeply up to the gates of Pienza.
